How to fast-forward ten years by driving for 40 minutes

Driving from Whistler to Pemberton is a bit like going from your 20s to your 30s. If that sounds a bit rich coming from someone my age, allow me to explain. Whistler is buzzing with good-looking twenty-somethings with extra piercings, scruffy facial hair, and floppy neon ski-gear. Young people flood the Village at all hours of the day and night, flashing grins other while side-stepping the perpetually lost tourists (unless, of course, you happen to be a young lost female tourist with a couple of extra piercings yourself…but we won’t get into that). There are young people everywhere; it’s a buffet of eye-candy.Pemberton is only about 40 minutes up the road from Whistler, but for me, the difference between Whistler and Pemberton was like the difference between my present and my future.  In Whistler I was surrounded by people much like myself: young, energetic, outdoorsy types who want nothing more than to seize youth and avoid responsibility. In Pemberton, I found myself among couples who have just settled down to buy their first home and start a family.It’s as though when the drunken hook-ups of Whistler actually turned into something, they went to Pemberton. This quiet, scenic valley town is filled with starry-eyed new mothers and fathers holding a child in one hand and a dog leash in the other. They’re usually ex-ski bums or farmers who love the outdoors but left their partying ways behind in Whistler. I imagine that Pemberton looks a bit like my life will in ten years.

And it actually looks good. Pemberton folks are awesomely friendly and even though they’re well past their partying heyday, they still know how to show you a good time. Within six hours of being in Pemberton, I went biking, horseback riding, gliding, hiking, and ate at not one, but two golf courses in one evening. Here’s some photographic evidence of what I experienced.

Patio at the golf course where I ate with reasonably epic views.

View from the glider. Not bad, eh?

Horseback riding at Pemberton Stables

There are little guys like this running around everywhere in Pemberton.

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I ♥ Bowen!

I’ve come up with a solution for island-homesickness. Here it is. Ready?

Find another island!

I dedicate this post to Bowen Island, my home for a summer and destination last Friday. Bowen is just the best. If you don’t believe me, I’ll give you ten reasons to.

1)      Kayaks

Bowen has kayaks. So what?

Well, on Bowen you can rent kayaks and paddle wherever you choose. It costs to rent the kayaks, but the million-dollar scenery is free.

If you’re not up for doing a long hard paddle around the island, do as we did when we lived on Bowen: slide a pack of chips and a bottle of wine beneath your spray skirt, paddle into Deep Bay, and chill out in the middle of water and watch the ferries go by. Bliss.

An afternoon paddle, featuring Phoebe

2)     Tuscany restaurant

Okay, this is a bit of self-promotion, because I used to work here. But  Tuscany is seriously great. There’s pizza (their Tuscany flavour is to-die-for), pasta, and an outdoor patio surrounded by lilacs and fresh herbs (not exaggerating). It’s right in Snug Cove too, so you can easily walk there from the ferry. Plus, they have really friendly, good-looking staff who are very deserving of your tips. *wink*

3)     Most big grey beards per capita in the country

Alright, I made that statistic up to catch your attention. But it is true that Bowen is home to a remarkable amount of men aged 60+ with big grey beards. The amount of people on Bowen who fit this description is so significant that my roommate and I coined a term for their unique demographic: the Bowen grey-beards (BGBs for short).

BGBs aren’t like the wispy-bearded Vancouverite men whose facial hair is driven dry by excess Starbucks consumption and fluorescent cubicle lighting. Oh no—these beards are as legit as the guys who sport them. BGBs are best spotted on the baseball field playing a game for the Bowen league, sipping their glass of on-tap jager-bomb at the Bowen Island Pub, on the side of the road hitch-hiking, or out on the beach fishing or skinny-dipping. Best thing about the BGBs, aside from their awesome beards? They’re friendly, just like everyone else on Bowen.

Classic.

4)      The marina

I’ve spent a few years on the West Coast now, and although I have a lot more exploring to do, I have yet to find a more picturesque marina than the one in Snug Cove on Bowen Island.

One of my favourite places to take photos

5)      The museum

More self promotion, because I used to work here too! It’s almost entirely fuelled by volunteers who are passionate about the history of the island. They almost ran out of government funding a couple years ago, but managed to survive. It may be low-budget but don’t let that you turn you off—the Bowen Island Museum is held together by looove.

6)      Artisan square

There are nine different artisans in Artisan Square, which means you could spend all afternoon looking at artwork if you’re into that kind of stuff. It’s not all visual art, though—one of the artisans is actually a chocolatier. Now that’s an art form everyone can appreciate. Yum.

7)      Baseball

Baseball on Bowen is quite the thing. You see, there are several different teams on the island, each with a long history and decades-old rivalries (I’m serious. You learn things, working at the community museum). Each year, there’s a tournament that begins sometime in May and ends sometime in July or August. On most nights during the summertime, you’ll find the locals gathered at the baseball diamond to watch the game.

When a player hits the ball outside the fence, all the kids race to find it. Whoever brings it back gets 25c (50c if it was a home-run), to be promptly spent on candy.

Excuse the lens flare.

8)      Regular liquor laws need not apply

Beer in the grocery store. Enough said.

9)      No need for keys.

When I moved in to my new place on Bowen, I asked my landlord for the keys. He raised his eyebrows and said, “Keys? I don’t think I have any.”

He had no idea if his house had any keys, let alone where to find them. It had literally been years since he locked his doors.

That’s just how things are on Bowen. In fact, if you’re staying somewhere on the island (a lodge, cabin, or B&B, for example) and ask your host for keys, the response from your host will probably be “You don’t need keys. This is Bowen!”

Apparently there has only been one documented instance of theft on Bowen Island, and that was when a couple of doped-up teenagers with a bad case of the munchies stole a tray of nanaimo bars from the bakery.

10)  Sun

Fact: Bowen gets more sun than Vancouver. That means more flowers, more rainbows, more happiness.

For the context of this photo, see my above description of our kayaking antics

Taken at Tunstall Bay. That's Phoebe again in the water.

I’m fairly convinced this island has magical qualities.

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Toto, I have a feeling we’re not on the island anymore

Within three hours of arriving in Vancouver, I drove down a pedestrian-only street, had my car towed, and wandered into the infamous downtown east side by accident. Frazzled, dehydrated, and compulsively checking my phone’s GPS for updates on my location, I forked out a ridiculous amount of money to get my car back and unrolled yet another map of the city.

Damn you, Vancouver, and your hard-to-read signs and debt-causing parking tickets! Why did I leave Victoria, again? I thought wistfully of the bumper stickers that islanders like to stick on their cars that say “Relax. This ain’t the mainland.”

More like “Stress out. This ain’t the island”! I thought.

Nasty ol' traffic jam outside of Langley

And Vancouver certainly isn’t–it doesn’t pretend to be. But as I spend more time in metro Vancouver, the more I realize that it’s not such a bad place. In fact, it’s arguably among the most beautiful cities in the world, and each community in greater Vancouver is uniquely attractive. What’s more, metro Vancouver is the gateway to some of the best outdoor tourism in the world. There’s idyllic towns along the Sunshine Coast, gasp-inducing views in Sea to Sky Country, startlingly arid terrain along the Fraser Canyon, and wide open farmland in the Fraser Valley. I’ve been lucky enough to visit all these places and I’m going to tell you about them.

An example of Vancouver being beautiful (another iPhone shot taken near English Bay)

If I sound like a shameless promoter for tourism in this region, it’s because I am. Literally. That is my job. This is just practice.

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